All Hail the Arctic Trooper ⏤ Boris Bidjan Saberi AW18
Amid the desolate polar wasteland, where the biting cold air let the fine veins of the faces burst, the day comes to an end. Exhausted creatures find their way, monotonously moving, through the vastness of the Arctic. The fresh snowfall from the morning has vanished. Uncovering patches of clear ice. Dystopian troopers, covering their eyes to protect them from the brightness of the terrain.
During Paris Fashion Week, the German-Persian Menswear Designer showcased his latest collection under the name PAGANISM at the Palais de Tokyo. Set in scene in a minimalistic, concrete surrounding his dystopian model army paraded down the runway. Dark techno tunes served as a musical backdrop.
Saberis' color palette consisted of dirty shades of white. Tones of grey as well as black as the eternal constant. This simplicity is broken with the introduction of shades of murex purple.
The utilitarian aspect of the collection is visible through the resistant tent coats and sleeping bags morphed into jackets. Sleeveless leather armor and heavy knits protect from the cold. Padded survival blanket are cross-fastened around the hip.
Furthermore, a nod to primitive tribes through fur coats and vegetable hand dyed camel and horse leather jackets is incorporated in Saberis’ design language. A shamanistic approach, held in the color brown as the visualization of the ancestral roots.
His fascination with winter sports stays consistent. Boris Bidjan Saberi just recently announced his newest coup with the French sports equipment manufacturer Salomon: A limited edition range of freestyle snowboards. Saberis’ ardor of craftsmanship doesn’t stay disregarded within this collaboration: Graphically cut boards had been covered with treated fabric from the iconic pant model P13 and finished off with a vinyl coating. Aesthetics follows function. The boards were cleverly integrated in the collection, whit them being carried in the models back.
All images © Matteo Carcelli